NOB HILL. Roundly praised by critics, the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton manages to do everything right: magnificent decor, an excellent wine list, professional service and, oh, the food. The contemporary French menu bears an Asian touch, and its execution is without reproof. Representative of the fare are chilled Dungeness crab with mango and red onion compote, slow-roasted Japanese sole with lobster tortellini, and sancho peppercorn-crusted duck breast with kumquat glaze. Excellent wines and champagnes bring out the cuisine's welcome complexity, and artisanal cheeses and hand-made desserts allow guests to cap a meal as their tastes desire.

UNION SQUARE. For more than 25 years, chef Hubert Keller has worked tirelessly to deliver fantastic French cuisine, professional service and extravagant decor at Fleur de Lys. Beneath a fabric-draped ceiling, guests ooh and aah over the richly-colored decor while delighting in beautifully prepared dishes such as Atlantic salmon baked in a corn pancake, Colorado lamb loin, seared dayboat scallops and peppered filet mignon. Luscious desserts provide an appropriate conclusion, and an extensive wine list adds depth to every offering.

RUSSIAN HILL. Patrons can't find enough good things to say about La Folie, the small family-run restaurant that mixes sure-handed French cuisine with a refreshing lack of pretense. In the intimate dining room, lush drapery, mirrors and exotic woods impart a note of luxury. The aesthetic is echoed beautifully in the restaurant's artful fare. Chef Roland Passot's <i>joie de vivre</i> shines through in his cooking and is visible in quail and foie gras lollipops, a trio of roasted rabbit with baby vegetables, and sautéed halibut cheeks with tomato confit. Three-, four- and five-course meals satisfy many appetites, as do vegetarian and à la carte options.