UNION SQUARE. A small, old-fashioned French bistro, Anjou is tucked away from the chaos of Union Square, a cozy respite for passers-by. Selections range from Gallic foods to pastas and dishes with Californian flair. Chef Pierre Morin's specialty desserts are wonderful, especially Anjou pears in warm sabayon. Just one taste of the delicacy will transport you to the Loire Valley's Anjou, Morin's homeplace and the inspiration for his cuisine.

SOMA. Since April 1993, chef-owner Loretta Keller has been enticing customers with creative French fare. Bizou (which means "little kiss") offers dishes that depart from what you may find in other restaurants. Mixing French culture and California attitude, the lively bistro delivers such temptations as batter-fried green beans with fig dipping sauce and country-style braised beef cheeks. Not all items are as extravagant, though, as indicated by wood-fired pizzas and pear salad.

RICHMOND DISTRICT. This charming bistro, happily ensconced in its small, friendly neighborhood, always issues a warm welcome. Its comfortably upscale dining room is busy but romantic, and patrons delight in Chapeau!'s well-executed French country fare. Classics like steak au poivre, roast chicken, cassoulet and duck a l'orange are served a la carte, but multi-course prix fixe menus and the early bird special are incredible deals. Crowning everything is a fabulous wine list that features more than 300 selections.

SOMA. Consistently regarded as one of the city's best bistros, Fringale has a reputation as a noisy, crowded place that offers sensational Basque-inspired cuisine. Within the neutral-toned space, diners are treated to unique, flavor-packed dishes and a broad array of Californian and French wines. Among the temptations you'll encounter are pan-roasted salmon, rack of lamb, confit of duck leg, steamed mussels, and a Black Angus rib-eye. It can be tough to secure a reservation, but doing so ensures an unforgettable culinary feast.

RUSSIAN HILL. Step right off the cable car and into this charming neighborhood establishment. Small and inviting, Hyde Street specializes in traditional French cooking. The kitchen's amazing food is eminently satisfying, as proven by moules marinières, bouillabaisse, steak frites, escargot and duck confit. The seasonal menu embraces what's best and freshest, and a weekday neighbor's special pays tribute to locals. In addition, an affordable prix fixe menu is served before 6:30pm. The wine list includes vintages from France and California.